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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.